I am building a cedar strip wood kayak. I purchased a kit for the "Spring Run S" from Redfish Kayak & Canoe in Port Townsend, Wa. The kit consists of an 18' long shipping crate which contains all of the 5/8" wide western red cedar strips as well as some Alaskan yellow cedar and Peruvian black walnut for accent colors. There is also another crate which contains 16 forms that mount on the strong back as well as fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin and miscellaneous other items. The shipping crate becomes the strong back after unpacking. The 16 forms are mounted and aligned on the strong back and the boat is built around these forms.
The Spring Run S is 16' 9" long with a beam of 23 7/8". I am still deciding on the design I will choose for the layout of the deck. There are endless possibilities for the design, whatever your imagination can envision.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Coaming Lip, Paddle Park, & Magnetic Hatch cover install.

Coaming Lip epoxied in place.


Hole cut for Paddle Park and epoxied in place. Fiberglass reinforcement underneath.





Pictures depicting installation of magnets in hatch covers. Holes are spot-faced, magnets placed in holes and sealed in place with a layer of glass & epoxy resin.







Hatch covers held in place on deck and installation of magnets and sacrificial seal on underside of deck. There is a barrier placed between hatch cover and the buildup on the deck so cover can be removed after the epoxy buildup and 5 layers of glass have cured.







Next I will cut out the excess in the center to about 1/8" from the magnets. First I have to make an adapter for my palm router to make the cut.

Next steps will be installation of thigh braces on coaming wall, then buildup of a panel of strips that the fore and aft bulkheads will be made from.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Cockpit Coaming and Hatches.

Bonding the coaming lip to the coaming wall and cutting out the hatches.

Attaching the coaming lip to the wall with colored, thickened epoxy.


Planing top of wall down to the lip.


Locating and cutting out fore and aft hatches.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

GLASSING INTERIOR & COCKPIT STUFF


Interior of deck and hull glassed.





Fitting coaming wall to deck



Cutting coaming wall to deck contour.


Layup of coaming lip & fitting to coaming wall.


Before epoxy sets up, the lip is clamped to coaming wall. After it sets up it will be cut to 1/4" thickness and eventually epoxied to the wall.


Tuesday, February 22, 2011

FIBERGLASSING THE DECK

These pics show the fiberglass laid out and smoothed and ready to apply the resin.



Deck glassed with initial coat of resin to wet the glass and soak into wood, followed after eight hours by two fill coats about eight hours apart.
After about twelve hours, I will trim the excess glass at the shear line.
Next will be the cockpit area, fitting the coaming wall to the cockpit recess, laying up the coaming lip, etc.



Thursday, February 10, 2011

DECK STRIPPING COMPLETED!

These images show the deck stripping being completed, the cockpit recess cut out,  pin stripping around the cutout, and the recess stripping completed. Now for all the tedious scraping, planing, sanding, etc., in preparation for glassing the deck.
















Saturday, January 29, 2011

MORE DECK STRIPPING

Most of the time consuming curly que design is finished and in place. Now I am stripping the western red cedar which makes up the remainder of the deck. Most of it is pretty straight forward. After the stripping is done the next step is locating and cutting the opening for the cockpit coaming and and laying it in place.