Coaming Lip epoxied in place.
Hole cut for Paddle Park and epoxied in place. Fiberglass reinforcement underneath.
Pictures depicting installation of magnets in hatch covers. Holes are spot-faced, magnets placed in holes and sealed in place with a layer of glass & epoxy resin.
Hatch covers held in place on deck and installation of magnets and sacrificial seal on underside of deck. There is a barrier placed between hatch cover and the buildup on the deck so cover can be removed after the epoxy buildup and 5 layers of glass have cured.
Next I will cut out the excess in the center to about 1/8" from the magnets. First I have to make an adapter for my palm router to make the cut.
Next steps will be installation of thigh braces on coaming wall, then buildup of a panel of strips that the fore and aft bulkheads will be made from.
I am building a cedar strip wood kayak. I purchased a kit for the "Spring Run S" from Redfish Kayak & Canoe in Port Townsend, Wa. The kit consists of an 18' long shipping crate which contains all of the 5/8" wide western red cedar strips as well as some Alaskan yellow cedar and Peruvian black walnut for accent colors. There is also another crate which contains 16 forms that mount on the strong back as well as fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin and miscellaneous other items. The shipping crate becomes the strong back after unpacking. The 16 forms are mounted and aligned on the strong back and the boat is built around these forms.
The Spring Run S is 16' 9" long with a beam of 23 7/8". I am still deciding on the design I will choose for the layout of the deck. There are endless possibilities for the design, whatever your imagination can envision.
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Friday, March 18, 2011
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